| The chance to dive in Indonesia, the country at the | | | | Komodo Dragons |
| heart of the world's marine biodiversity, is always a | | | | A land excursion near Komodo Island |
| privilege. The thought of the dragons of Komodo | | | | Of course if you mention the word Komodo to most |
| Island and the amazing dives sites in its surrounding | | | | people, the first image they will have in their mind is |
| waters also fills me with awe. So you can imagine my | | | | that of the legendary dragon. Seven Seas' Komodo |
| delight at the chance to board the new Indonesian | | | | trips include a day's visit to the island where you can |
| liveaboard, the Seven Seas, on a trip around | | | | get up close with these enormous reptiles. We chose |
| Indonesia's best loved national marine park. | | | | the 2 hour walk option, which took us inland away |
| I arrived late September and, after a night in Bali, | | | | from the ranger station and onto higher ground, in |
| checked-in for my morning flight to Labuan Bajo, | | | | search of dragons in a more natural habitat. Walking |
| Flores. Such flights mean you can concentrate all your | | | | along through the dry sparse vegetation onto |
| dive time within the park, instead of spending 2 or 3 | | | | viewpoints from where you can gaze all around, and |
| days getting to and from Bali and diving (in my | | | | know that you are standing on Komodo Island, is a |
| opinion) inferior sites. The flight with IAT was on a | | | | special thought. Sadly we did not see any large |
| little twin propeller plane which, to my eternal relief, | | | | dragons on our trek. However on the way back we |
| handled the flight well and was a steady as any jet. | | | | did spot a few juveniles scurrying around in the |
| On board were a mix of locals, divers and other | | | | undergrowth. The island itself is a popular spot with |
| tourists gazing down as we soared over the | | | | divers and non-divers alike so you are likely to meet |
| ever-changing coastline and shimmering seas. I was | | | | other travellers there. If you are on board the Seven |
| glad to see my face amongst them, kissing the | | | | Seas you can expect to see plenty of jealous |
| tortoise shell. | | | | glances into the bay when other people realise you |
| On arrival at Labuan Bajo's little airport, I was met by | | | | are on the large proud burgundy sailing ship standing |
| a representative of Seven Seas who took us the 15 | | | | head and shoulders above the other vessels at |
| minutes from the airport to the jetty. The guests | | | | anchor. |
| introduced themselves in the minibus and chatted | | | | The Ambience |
| excitedly about what the next few days had in store | | | | Mark Heighes, one of the owners and one of |
| for this group of disparate individuals, united only by a | | | | Indonesia's best known characters in the diving |
| shared love of the underwater world. | | | | community, was our cruise director and throughout |
| The first sight of our home for the next few days | | | | the trip kept us entertained with funny stories and |
| was impressive. Standing tall and proud in the harbour | | | | also engaged us with interesting information about |
| was this elegant, burgundy schooner. A beautiful | | | | the park and the efforts to preserve its environment. |
| Indonesian sailing ship with a pronounced bow, belying | | | | Every night we would sit around after one of the |
| the hull's original cargo purpose. The crew, all clad in | | | | tasty and varied meals that we were treated with, |
| Seven Seas burgundy t-shirts, helped us on board | | | | and chat about all manner of subjects. The guests |
| and greeted us with smiles and welcome drinks. We | | | | were such a mixed bunch that mercifully we were |
| were shown to our cabins below deck. I had a cabin | | | | spared the 24 hour diving chat and instead covered |
| with twin beds and, as with all, an en-suite bathroom | | | | vast range of topics. On a couple of occasions we |
| of a standard you would be lucky to find in a hotel, | | | | elected to pop on a DVD and all lounged in the saloon |
| complete with excellent piping hot power shower. | | | | enjoying a movie on the flat screen TV and surround |
| We set off from Labuan Bajo for our itinerary | | | | sound. |
| around the northern section of the Komodo National | | | | Possibly the best aspect of the Seven Seas is the |
| Park. I had memories of the Southern section on a | | | | amount of space. The A/C saloon is large and |
| previous trip where water temperatures had dropped | | | | comfortable and in addition to the table and benches |
| to the teens. However, I was pleased that on this | | | | in the middle of the main deck, there is a lot of |
| trip we would be diving mostly in the north. The | | | | space on the upper deck. Above the saloon is an |
| diving, as promised, was excellent. The one thing that | | | | open sundeck area with sun loungers and tables and |
| seems to stand out in Komodo is the sheer colour of | | | | chairs, as well as cushioned sofa beds. In the aft |
| the reefs. Where else can you find such a riot of | | | | section of the upper deck is a fully-covered lounging |
| yellow, blue, green, red, brown and pink all in the one | | | | area with sofa beds in the trademark burgundy. It all |
| spot? | | | | adds up to comfort galore; and to couple the |
| The Diving in Komodo | | | | comfort and space above water with the variety and |
| Of course diving Komodo is such a varied experience | | | | wonder of Komodo National Park below water, truly |
| that it cannot really be said to be about one thing. | | | | is a great combination. |
| There are also great numbers of fish in the right | | | | Small Things that Make a Big Difference |
| spots. One of my favourite dives was 'Fishbowl' | | | | Perhaps one difference between cruises on the |
| where, in addition to shark and ray sightings and | | | | Seven Seas and those with other Komodo |
| myriad little reef fish, there were also big numbers of | | | | liveaboards is that guests are encouraged to explore |
| snapper, sweetlips, trevally and fusiliers. When such | | | | the islands rather than spending all their free time on |
| fish biomass is set against the vibrant hues of | | | | deck. We had a trek over an uninhabited island with |
| Komodo's reefs surely there are few other locations | | | | spectacular views and a gorgeous beach, where the |
| which offer so much. | | | | sand is a few shades more red than its more famous |
| Night dives are another feature of Komodo which | | | | neighbour, 'Pink (sometimes Red) Beach'. Some |
| must be emphasised. One evening we slipped away | | | | guests also went of for relaxing sunset kayak |
| on the Seven Seas' excellent tender (which has the | | | | excursions which make magical photo opportunities. |
| type of simple but effective seating arrangement | | | | One day while moored in a quiet bay, a dugong |
| that should be copied by all dive tenders) to a spot | | | | surfaced for breath near the boat,which was |
| above a dive site known as 'Spanish Dancer'. In the | | | | followed by a kayak trip for further interaction. |
| dark of night a fantastic number of nocturnal | | | | Dugongs however only play when they want to and |
| creatures were scuttling and slithering over the reef, | | | | this time it seems we weren't invited. |
| including highlights such as slipper lobsters (my first | | | | On the trip back to Labuan Bajo as we chilled out |
| sighting) and of course the eponymous Spanish | | | | with cold beers and the setting sun cast a pink glow |
| Dancers, whose mid-water dance illuminated by our | | | | over the water, dolphins cavorted in our wake and I |
| spotlights provided a breathtaking moment. | | | | found myself more in love with Komodo than ever, |
| Pillarsteen was another highlight for me given its | | | | and sad to be bidding it farewell. |
| incredible topography with all manner of caves, | | | | For anyone with a love of scuba diving or an interest |
| swim-throughs and chimneys. This felt like a real | | | | in nature, then this one area with Komodo dragons, |
| adventure with the divemaster leading the way into | | | | manta rays, dugongs, dolphins and innumerable |
| seemingly dead-end fissures in the rock only to be | | | | delightful fish and reefs, has an allure that can only be |
| followed by a snake of excited divers emerging out | | | | resisted for so long. |
| of the other side into the sunlight. As a change from | | | | I know I will be back one day. Perhaps not for some |
| focusing on all the colour and fish, Pillarsteen proved a | | | | time but I must surely revisit the magical place that is |
| very popular addition to our cruise. | | | | Komodo. |