| The first step in controlling freshwater aquarium algae | | | | allowed to dry completely, and then returned to the |
| is accepting the fact that it will always be there; in | | | | aquarium. |
| fact algae growth is a positive sign that your | | | | Green Algae |
| aquarium is healthy. Once you accept this basic truth, | | | | Often called hair or thread algae, this is considered |
| you can move past the battle zone and start | | | | healthy algae that will always exist in your tank and |
| working on control. | | | | one that you actually want! It has been |
| Adhering to good maintenance practices will resolve | | | | demonstrated time and again that algae will return |
| 90% of your algae issues, by this we mean proper | | | | sooner and grow faster in a thoroughly cleaned tank |
| feeding habits, healthy stocking levels, adequate | | | | vs. one that has been left with a few spots of algae. |
| filtration systems, and 10-15% weekly water changes | | | | We recommended leaving a few decorations |
| with a gravel vacuum. | | | | untouched to continue taking up the nutrients in your |
| In spite of all your diligent hard work, there will come | | | | water column. |
| a time when something goes awry and your | | | | Green Water |
| beautiful, pristine aquarium is going to experience an | | | | Also called algae bloom, it is billions of microscopic |
| algae explosion that will have to be dealt with. Armed | | | | single cell algae suspended in the water and is a direct |
| with good information and a positive attitude, you will | | | | result of too much light, usually sunlight and high |
| be victorious! | | | | saturations of nutrients. They can become so dense |
| There are several types of freshwater aquarium | | | | you won't be able to see more than an inch or two |
| algae and for each the underlying cause and | | | | into the aquarium. Luckily they are not dangerous to |
| treatment plan will differ, however the battle plan is | | | | your fish as it may take several weeks to clear up. |
| always the same: identify - conquer - control. Here | | | | The base cause must be identified before moving |
| are several algae types you will likely have an | | | | forward - if it is sunlight, block the light or move the |
| opportunity to deal with at some point in your hobby | | | | tank - it if is nutrients, review your maintenance |
| and some suggestions on how to handle them. | | | | basics, identify the problem and fix it. Then you can |
| Brown Algae | | | | deal with your green water. |
| Common to new tanks, it is also known as gravel or | | | | Introducing daphnia is one solution; they eat the algae |
| silica algae. It is harmless to your fish and typically | | | | and then become food for your fish. In addition to |
| goes away as your tank matures. It is most often | | | | blocking all light for several days, use of a diatomic |
| promoted by low oxygen levels, insufficient light and | | | | filter or UV sterilizer will help to clear your water as |
| excess nitrates or silicates in the water column. | | | | well. Be sure to perform frequent water changes, |
| Adding an air stone or two, putting in a new light bulb | | | | vacuuming the dead cells before they have a chance |
| and increasing your photo period should take care of | | | | to elevate nitrate levels. |
| the first two causes. | | | | Green Spot Algae |
| Test your nitrate levels, if they are high, perform | | | | Actually, this is not algae at all. The Green spots on |
| small (10%) water changes for several days until the | | | | your tank walls are microscopic animals called diatoms |
| level drops; you will want to identify why your nitrate | | | | that secrete a hard calcium shell on which green algae |
| levels are high and deal with that underlying cause as | | | | grows. Using the correct scraper/scrubber for your |
| well, otherwise you will be right back to where you | | | | aquarium type during maintenance sessions should |
| started. If silicates are an issue, your water source is | | | | keep a handle on these little critters. |
| the most likely culprit; finding an alternate water | | | | Blue-Green Algae |
| source or adding silicate absorbing resins in your filter | | | | Green, blue, black or red in color, this is not algae! It |
| should help alleviate this issue. | | | | is cyanobacteria which spreads quickly, looks nasty |
| Beard Algae | | | | and can cause major damage in short order. |
| Also referred to as red algae, it grows on the edges | | | | Phosphate is normally the driver behind this scourge; |
| of hard surfaces and prefers organic items such as | | | | high levels of organic wastes or anaerobic (low or no |
| plants and tree logs over other decorations in your | | | | oxygen) conditions can be contributors as well. |
| aquarium. It grows in dense patches and resembles a | | | | Clean as much as you can from the aquarium, reduce |
| dirty green beard, grows rapidly and is near | | | | the light source for several weeks and try an organic |
| impossible to remove by hand. | | | | chemical such as Boyd's Chemi Clean or comparable |
| Affected plants can be taken out of the aquarium, | | | | product. Check your tap water for phosphates, if |
| contaminated leaves removed and dipped in a 5% | | | | levels are elevated, find another source for your |
| bleach solution for 2 or 3 minutes - be sure to rinse | | | | water changes. Employ good cleaning and water |
| thoroughly before returning to the aquarium. | | | | change procedures, be patient and keep at it. You will |
| Likewise, decorations can be removed, soaked in a | | | | prevail in the end. |
| 10% bleach solution for 15 minutes, thoroughly rinsed, | | | | |