| Lighting is required for any aquarium, not only to bring | | | | the ballast amperage rating. |
| your aquatic display to life with all its brilliant colors, | | | | What are Lumens? |
| but to mimic natural light which is required for healthy | | | | Lumens is another area of common confusion. |
| plant, coral and fish growth. | | | | Wattage is the "power" of the tube. Lumens are the |
| Fish-Only Lighting | | | | actual amount of light being "radiated", or the amount |
| Naturally, any lighting package suitable for a reef | | | | of light energy reaching the animals created by the |
| system would also be acceptable on a fish-only tank, | | | | power output of the tube. |
| but not necessary. Most fish don't need a light above | | | | Light tubes are rated by K (Kelvin), Color |
| them in the aquarium. The light in the room is plenty | | | | Temperature, or CRI and Wattage. As a general rule, |
| of light for the fish. But many people prefer a lighted | | | | aquarium related fluorescents in regard to reef |
| aquarium, for a better view of the fish and to add a | | | | habitats should not fall below the 5500K rating. Kelvin |
| luminous effect to the tank. Remember to turn the | | | | is the type of light that is produced. The lower the |
| light off when not viewing the aquarium. This will | | | | Kelvin, the more yellow the light. Hence, the higher |
| reduce the growth of algae and green water in your | | | | the Kelvin, our light appears starkly white or |
| aquarium. | | | | blue-white. Getting way up there into the 20,000K |
| Single or double fluorescent tubes under hoods are | | | | range, the bulbs actually appear to glow dark blue! |
| easiest to install and maintain. You simply set it on | | | | The Kelvin ratings are an important consideration |
| the tank rim and turn it on. The quality of the actual | | | | when you are talking DEPTH! The natural reef |
| tube is generally geared for freshwater guppies and | | | | environment begins at the surface and can reach to |
| goldfish, rather than marine fish. The bulbs for these | | | | depths down to 150 feet, or more! |
| light hoods are easily replaced when they burn out. | | | | The K rating, or CRI, gives you the ability to match |
| Fluorescent tubes provide varying degrees of color | | | | the tank lighting to that of your animal's natural |
| enhancement to the fish, that results in the gorgeous | | | | habitat. Without this important advance, we could |
| splash of vibrant colors that are attractive. The basic | | | | never hope to duplicate lighting conditions at DEPTH |
| wattage in standard tubes vary from 15 watts to 40 | | | | needed in our living rooms, and provide as near |
| watts output power. The tube length generally | | | | identical conditions for our corals and inverts as that |
| equates to tube wattage. For those wanting a small | | | | in nature. |
| system up to 55 gallons, and have no intention | | | | Wattage plays an important part here, too. The |
| beyond fish-keeping, these plastic hoods with their | | | | higher the wattage, the deeper it will penetrate. With |
| Standard or NO fluorescent tubes do a fine job and | | | | the right K rating, a hobbyist could conceivably |
| provide many years of reliable service. NO (Normal | | | | duplicate conditions at 50 feet, for example, in an |
| Output) fluorescent tubes feature a color | | | | aquarium only 18" deep. It's a trade-off, higher |
| temperature around 5500K and come with a stated | | | | wattage vs. proper K rating. Combine the two and |
| useful lifespan of approximately 20,000 hours of | | | | you achieve reef lighting. |
| illumination. The NO tubes are quite reasonable in price | | | | Metal Halides |
| for those that are on a budget or first time aquarium | | | | Metal Halide (MH) lighting is the finest light energy |
| hobbyist. However, they will not be able to | | | | source we have, and it can provide the right |
| accommodate nor support any photosynthetic | | | | incredible intensity of light ideal for maintaining delicate |
| animals, or provide the output intensity required for | | | | to established SPS corals. They can also create all |
| other extremely light hungry marine denizens. | | | | kinds of other issues to the aquarist. |
| Basically what you are accomplishing is simple and | | | | Metal Halides are heat-radiating, and, therefore can |
| straightforward, basic illumination and the simulation of | | | | have a direct effect on your water temperature. The |
| the day-night cycle as found in Nature. | | | | use of fans and chillers becomes necessary ( which |
| (Do not depend on the aquarium lights to heat the | | | | can be more costly). |
| aquarium water, use an aquarium heater and | | | | A 12 inch MINIMUM distance from the MH bulb to the |
| thermometer.) | | | | water surface is the general rule. This allows some air |
| Reef Aquarium Lighting | | | | movement between the bulb and the water, |
| Different types of lighting used in the Reef Aquaria: | | | | lessening the heat impact. The fans, however, are still |
| 1.) Fluorescentso A - Normal Output (NO)o B - High | | | | a necessity! |
| Output (HO)o C - Very High Output (VHO)o D - | | | | Power Compact Fluorescent |
| Power Compacts (PC) | | | | Compact fluorescent lamps are a great choice if you |
| 2.) Metal Halides (MH)o Metal Halide does not have | | | | want to be more economical. They deliver a higher |
| any differentiating qualities other than wattage and | | | | concentration of light energy in a smaller space than |
| spectral output. | | | | standard-length tubes. Their VHO quality gives them |
| Fluorescent tubes are the most practical and most | | | | the ability to deliver the right amount of lumens in |
| cost effective of any lighting source. They burn | | | | whatever color temperature (CRI, K., etc.) you |
| relatively cool and last many months. What one must | | | | choose. |
| watch for when choosing these tubes are their | | | | Coral Lighting |
| Wattage, and CRI (Color Rendition Index), also | | | | Most corals can be placed into three major |
| referred to as "K" (Kelvin). | | | | categories: Stony (exterior skeletons), Soft (no |
| The general rule of thumb for a reef system is to | | | | calcium-based skeleton), and SPS (Short/Small |
| use 3 to 5 watts per actual gallon of water in order | | | | Polyped Stony). |
| to provide the intensity necessary for photosynthesis | | | | When it comes to how corals grow, each category |
| to take place within marine organism's polyps or | | | | of animal requires its own unique lighting requirements. |
| tissues. | | | | All corals share one common trait, photosynthesis, in |
| When comparing the wattage of the NO (Normal | | | | order to survive. Marine animals survive by converting |
| Output) or Standard tubes to that of VHO (Very | | | | light energy into "food". Actually, this energy is |
| High Output) tubes, the wattage ratings on the NO | | | | consumed by zooxanthellae algaes that produce |
| Standard tubes are much lower than that of the | | | | by-products that the corals need to survive. By |
| VHO tubes of the same length. | | | | differing the spectral output of our tank lighting we |
| VHOs require special 1500mA ballasts or ballast kits, | | | | can actually influence the ultimate color/shading of |
| and are not compatible with any other ballast. mA is | | | | our corals. |