| AQUARIUM: | | | | change, as they do NOT actually remove ammonia). |
| Start with as large an aquarium as you can afford. | | | | If you have plants in your aquarium they will directly |
| The very BASIC principle that is to have 1-2 inches | | | | consume the ammonia (especially hornwort), thus |
| of NARROW bodied fish per FILTERED aquarium | | | | rendering the NO2 (nitrite) part of the nitrogen cycle |
| gallon is a starting point, but not very accurate. This | | | | null. The danger here is if your pH climbs above 6.5 |
| also only applies to a standard rectangular aquarium. | | | | the ammonia can change to much more toxic NH3 |
| Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so I would triple this | | | | and the aerobic bacteria needed for nitrite |
| with them, in fact for long term goldfish health, one | | | | consumption will be sparse. |
| goldfish per 8-10 gallons is best. | | | | LIVE PLANTS: |
| Obviously longer fish need more tank width and | | | | Live plants are desirable in my opinion, but many |
| length. I would decrease the amount of fish | | | | artificial plants can look quite realistic when properly |
| proportional to the gallons in a tall aquarium or | | | | arranged or used in conjunction with live plants. For a |
| hexagon aquarium. | | | | beginner live plants are more difficult, but not a lot. |
| Remember, many fish purchased can grow much | | | | The benefits of live plants are they are great at |
| larger than your original purchase size (ex: goldfish), | | | | nitrate removal and keep a natural balance to the |
| so keep this in mind too. | | | | aquarium, removing CO2 and adding oxygen (only |
| What is much more important in determining how | | | | during daylight). Hornwort is an excellent plant for |
| many fish you should add to your aquarium are these | | | | nitrate removal, and is relatively easy to grow. |
| factors: | | | | Banana plants (when available) are also a very easy |
| *The amount of surface area relative to the gallons | | | | plant. Be careful with many fish that will "mow down" |
| of water the aquarium holds. | | | | your plants such as: Silver Dollars, most African |
| *Type of fish, such as fish that naturally produce | | | | cichlids, and even goldfish. |
| more waste (partlydo to the type of food they eat) | | | | Here is a list of "easy" beginner plants: |
| such as goldfish where one fish per 8+gallons is | | | | Compacta swords, hornwort, Red wendtii, spiral valis, |
| better. | | | | dwarf subulata, Hygro, Java fern regular or lace. |
| *Filtration, a properly filtered aquarium (good bio | | | | For healthy plants I suggest a substrate of #00 sand |
| filtration, good mechanical filtration, and good | | | | mixed with laterite about 3-5 cm deep with a layer of |
| circulation) with multiple filters isimportant. | | | | #3 gravel on top about 2 cm deep. This combination |
| *Maintenance schedule that includes regular efficient | | | | works well for plant roots, ease of vacuuming the |
| water changes | | | | top layer ONLY (where plant roots are), and for |
| *A new aquarist needs to start with a much less | | | | better bio filtration. You can substitute laterite with a |
| crowded aquarium. | | | | sandy top soil (although usually not as good a source |
| FILTERS: | | | | of iron), by preparing the soil thus; Gather sandy top |
| I always recommend two filters minimum per | | | | soil, add water with a 10/1 bleach solution, mix for a |
| aquarium for redundancy and for improved biological | | | | couple of minutes, then rinse (with a de-chlorinator |
| (denitrifying) filtration. For a small aquarium, a | | | | for first rinse) until the water runs relatively clear. |
| combination of a hang on the back (power) and a | | | | The sand that is left is what you mix with your plant |
| sponge filter. Or a sponge filter and an internal power | | | | roots. |
| filter. You want to make sure and rinse your sponge | | | | FEEDING: |
| or cartridge out in used aquarium water to maintain | | | | I recommend feeding high quality fish and plant based |
| your beneficial bacteria for bio filtration. | | | | foods. Quality ingredients include: spirulina, fish meal, |
| Other filters of note include canister, wet/dry, under | | | | FD Brine Shrimp, shrimp meal, Vitamin C & E, |
| gravel, and fluidized bed. | | | | lobster shell. |
| There are four types of filtration: | | | | Fish cannot digest proteins from beef well, and fish |
| Biological; the removal of nitrogenous waste | | | | get most their energy requirements from fats. Some |
| (ammonia, ECT), which is the most important type. | | | | quality foods include: Omega, Spirulina 20, Ocean |
| Mechanical; the removal of larger debris (organic and | | | | Nutrition, Hikari, Sanyu. |
| inorganic) before it can go through the nitrogen cycle | | | | Feed you fish two to three times per day what they |
| (organic) | | | | will consume in three minutes. |
| Chemical; The removal of chemical contamination via | | | | Feeding foods high in poor quality proteins can |
| carbon, zeolite or many other products. This | | | | increase your nitrate levels, as an essential ingredient |
| becomes less important in a healthy, established | | | | in protein is nitrogen, and if unusable by the fish, it is |
| aquarium. | | | | excreted, entering into the nitrogen cycle. |
| Germicidal; The use of UVC or ozone to kill disease | | | | CLEANING: |
| pathogens and control the Redox potential. | | | | You should try and have a schedule of changing 20% |
| HEATER: | | | | (or more) of your water every week. I recommend |
| Most tropical fish do well at a temperature between | | | | using a gravel vacuum, you need not remove the fish |
| 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. (Discus prefer | | | | while using a gravel vacuum. Make sure the water |
| warmer). | | | | you add back in is the same temperature and ph, and |
| Goldfish do not need a heater. | | | | has no chlorine or chloramines. |
| I recommend 25 watts for every 10 degrees of | | | | CHEMISTRY: |
| ambient temperature you need to raise your | | | | Keep your ammonia level at 0, your nitrite at 0, your |
| aquarium temperature. EX: If your home is 68 | | | | nitrates below 20-30, and your KH above 80 ppm. Ph |
| degrees and you have a 40 gallon aquarium, to reach | | | | depends very much on the fish you are keeping. |
| a temperature of 78 degrees you would need a 100 | | | | Discus prefer under a ph below 7.0, while Mbuna |
| watt heater. | | | | African cichlids prefer above 8.0. |
| CYCLING: | | | | A very general ph of 7.2 -7.5 works for many |
| Your aquarium will not be at peak biological filtration | | | | community fish. |
| for 6 weeks (or more). To start your biological | | | | Crushed Coral and/or Wonder Shells (Wonder Shells |
| filtration, there are many cycling products available, | | | | are much faster at dissolving to the desired KH) can |
| such "Cycle" by Hagen. My success with these | | | | help maintain a high pH when you desire an aquarium |
| products is mixed at best, it is very difficult for the | | | | with a higher pH, KH, & GH, especially where tap |
| aerobic bacteria that are needed for cycling your | | | | or well water is very acidic. |
| aquarium to live in a sealed container kept at room | | | | For a lower pH in aquariums where the tap water |
| temperature, as they die very quickly without | | | | used is very high (usually 7.8 or above), I have used |
| oxygen. | | | | blends of RO (Reverse Osmosis) water and tap |
| I prefer to add gravel or a used filter sponge/ | | | | water. The ratio varies with the tap water pH, KH, |
| cartridge from another aquarium. You can also just | | | | & GH and the water conditions I want to |
| set up your aquarium and run the filters for a couple | | | | achieve. With Discus it can be as high as 75% RO. |
| of weeks (pretty boring though, and this is also a | | | | Then to maintain these conditions I use peat in my |
| slow way to develop aerobic bacteria). | | | | filters. Note that GH does not affect pH, and |
| Cycling is what is referred to as the Nitrogen cycle. | | | | magnesium (a major ingredient of GH) is important to |
| Waste (nitrogenous) from the fish is broken down | | | | fish metabolism. Also note that calcium which is the |
| first from ammonia (NH3, the most toxic) to nitrites | | | | main factor in KH (which does affect pH!) is also |
| (NO2, less toxic) to nitrates (NO3, least toxic- but | | | | important for fish metabolism and fish health and |
| high amounts can stunt fish growth and lower | | | | healing. With the above method of using RO (or DI) |
| disease resistance). | | | | water in a blend with tap water and peat, I have still |
| At a pH of 6.5, NH3 (ammonia) converts to NH4 | | | | been able to maintain a KH above 80 ppm (for |
| (ammonia) which is basically non-toxic to most fish | | | | proper calcium absorption), sometimes with additives |
| (many ammonia removing chemicals to a similar ion | | | | such Wonder Shells or Calcium Polygluconate. |